How to Install a Frost-Proof Outdoor Faucet

Don't have to deal with bursting pipes this winter. Install a frost-proof faucet.

Call for local Plumbing Rules

You'll generally need:

-3/4-in pipe and sillcock

-vaccuum breaker that attaches to the sillcock, or a siphon-preventative sillcock

-shutoff valve (a.k.a stop valve) 

-if you're switching to copper pipe, you'll need a special dielectric fitting for corrosion prevention. 

Make a Parts List

Measure your existing plumbing, and make a new plumbing layout for a material list. Draw where the pipe and fitting go; indicate whether a part has threaded, sweat, or solvent-welded joints, labeling size and description

Assembly

Remove the Old Faucet

Turn off either the water shutoff valve to the existing sill cock or the main water supply. Open the sill cock and drain the water from the line. Remove the old sill cock by positioning a pipe wrench at the back of the sill cock and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Have an assistant use a pipe wrench to hold back the sill cock supply line inside to prevent sections of pipe from unscrewing.

Turn off the Next Pipe

Unscrew the old pipe at the joint closest to the outside wall. Hold one side stationary with one pipe wrench and twist off the pipe with the other. Remove as many couplings and pipes as needed to fit in the new assembly

Insert new Sillcock

Bore a 1-1/8 in. hole (if the hole needs enlarging) for the new sill cock using a masonry hole saw. Dry-fit the sill cock in an upright position tight against the wall and mark the location of the fastening holes. Drill two 1/4-in. holes with a masonry drill bit and push the plastic screw anchors in flush to the wall. Apply a thick bead of clear silicone around the back of the sill cock flange, push it against the wall and fasten it with two 1-1/4 in. No. 8 roundhead brass screws.

Attach Dielectric Fitting

Disassemble the dielectric fitting and solder one end to a 6-in. copper pipe. Cool the pipe and reassemble the fitting. Then solder the copper male adapter to the other end. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the galvanized pipe and tightly screw the dielectric fitting to the pipe.

Assemble Pipe and Fittings

Apply pipe tape to the male adapter threads on the 6-in. pipe and screw the “stop and waste” ball valve to it. The water flow direction arrow on the valve must point toward the sill cock. Solder a male adapter to a 12-in. copper pipe, apply pipe tape to the adapter threads and screw it into the other side of the ball valve. Temporarily screw a female adapter to the sill cock and slide a female coupling halfway onto the end of the 12-in. pipe. Then measure the distance between them, add 1 in. and cut a section of 3/4-in. copper pipe to fit.

Sweat the Copper

Remove the female adapter and solder it to the last copper pipe. Then apply pipe tape to the male threads, and screw the adapter onto the sill cock. Solder both copper pipes into the coupling. When sweating the copper joints, open the sill cock, hold the torch on one side of the connection and the lead-free solder wire on the other side. Heat the joint for 10 seconds until the solder melts and flows around the connection.