Using modular construction and inexpensive materials make building a storage shed not too difficult or time consuming.
- Air compressor
- Air hose
- Brad nail gun
- Cordless drill
- Tape measure
- Circular saw
- Caulk gun
- Chalk line
- Drill bit set
- Hearing protection
- Pocket hole jig
- Speed square
- Tin snips
Before you start check with your town to see if you'll need a permit. Then call 811 to find out if there are any buried utility lines. The first thing you'll need to do is set a pair of treated 6x6s on a level gravel bed.
When you've decided on the location, dig two trenches 16" wide by 12" deep by 13" long. Center the trenches 66" apart, and fill the trenches with a 3" layer of gravel and compact it with a hand tamper. Repeat until filled. Use a level and a long board to level the top of the gravel.
Cut treated 6x6s to 12' and set them on the gravel so theyre parallel and with outside edges 6' apart. Make sure the 6x6s are level and level with each other. Square the 6x6s by adjusting the position of one 6x6. Slide it back and forth until the diagonal measurements from opposite corners are equal. Build the platform with treated 2x6s, 24" on center and cover with treated 3/4" plywood.
Start Building Walls
Building the walls on the shed platform is your best bet. Snap chalk lines on the plywood deck 3.5" from the edges of the platform to indicate the inside edge of the walls. Make sure the lines are parallel and 89" apart, then chalk down the center. Use dimensions from figure C to snap lines for the peak. Cut 2x4s to fit inside the lines and toe-screw them to the plywood to hold them in place while you fill in the center studs and nail on the siding
Nail on Siding
Make sure the siding overhangs the frame by 3.5" on each side, and make sure you've trimmed off the top corner to follow the slop of the top plate. Attach siding with 2" galvanized or staineless steel siding nails, placed about every 8" along studs and 6" along the edges. Nail blocking between the studs to support the top edge of the siding and the Z-flashing.
Side the Walls
Remove the toe-screws and move the wall out of the way to start building the opposite wall. Use the same chalk line template. Refer to figure C for details on the front wall. Mark the curves on the 2x10 header and cut with the jigsaw. When finished the walls, it's time for the roof.
Building the roof upside-down is easier to do, but you need to make sure the framing is square and perimeter 2x4s are perfectly straight before nailing on the soffit. Start by cutting rafters using pattern D. Omit the bird's-mouth from 4 rafters, and use for the ends. Cut 2x4s for ridge and subfascia to length and mark the rafters positions on them.
Line up the rafters with the marks and nail through the ridge and subfascia with 16d nails. When the frame's complete, line up the subfascia with the chalk line on the platform and tack it in 3-4 places with toe screws to hold the frame straight while you install the soffit. Make sure the frame is square by doing the diagonal measurement trick. Then tack a corner to hold it square. Nail the soffit to the roof frame with 6d galvanized nails. Build the other half using the same process.
Start Standing up
Move one of the end panels into place and rest the bottom plate of the wall on the platform, then tip it up and secure it with a temporary angled 2x4 brace. Line up the bottom plate with a chalkline and drive a few 3" screws ir 16d nails through the plate to hold the bottom in position. Stand the back wall, then align the corner of the side and back walls and nail them together.
Line up the inside edge of the bottom plate with the calk line, and nail it to the platform. Continue standing the opposite end wall, then front. Nail the corners together, makling sure the top plates of adjoining walls are flush.
Raise the Roof
Get some helpers, and move the roof panels into position and lean them against the walls. Set up ladders inside for two helpers, and push a panel up to them. Side the panel up the roof until the bird's-mouths drop over the top plate of the wall. Make sure the 2x4 ridge is perfectly aligned with the peak of the wall.
Then secure the roof panel with toenails through each bird's-mouth into the top plate. Repeat the process on the opposite side. Complete the roof frame by nailing 2x4 ridges together and adding the collar ties 4' apart.
Build the Door
You can build a door for 1/10th of the cost. Once the frame is complete cut 4x8' grooved plywood to fit the lower recess, and cut 1/4" acrylic sheet to fit the upper recess. Secure the plywood and acrylic with 1/2"x1/2" moldings nailed to the inside, then sand the edges flush. Cut the hinge recesses, and screw the hinges to the door and trim.
Build the Windows
Add Finishing Touches
Figure A and E show exterior trim details. Mount the brackets, and line up the outside edges of the lower brackets with the face of the siding, pushing them tight to the soffit and screw them to the wall. Center the top brackets on the peak and push them tight to the soffit. Starting with the under-bracket pieces, wrap the corers with the corner board. Overlap the front corner board onto the side (See figure E).
Then shingle your roof, and stain/paint the shed the way you want to. Enjoy your brand new hand-made storage space!